When a brand breaks its oldest rule
Lessons from Maison Margiela’s new brand ambassador, Vyrao’s sex-themed launch, and Burberry’s W25 campaign
September 5, 2025 | Edinburgh, UK
Welcome back to The Brandsider - a weekly study on the making of cult brands. You’re reading The Briefing, a roundup of this week’s stories, and what they teach us about building cult-worthy brands.
It’s only been a few short weeks, but Edinburgh already feels like home. After months at breakneck speed, I’m finally settling into a new routine and trying to be patient with myself as I ramp back up.
In between leaving corporate and moving cities, my social content took a back seat. First for lack of time, then for lack of clarity. Without a clear ‘why’, I started second-guessing every script, every brand - and found myself wondering whether I’d ever be in flow again.
It took a few days off to remind myself why I created this platform in the first place. Not because I’m the undisputed expert on cult brands, but because I want to build my own. I’m leveraging my years of business and brand strategy experience to decode what makes a brand ‘cult’ - and then chronicling my learnings for both myself and other founders.
Credit to brand strategy, because tapping back into this purpose has given me a surge of motivation I haven’t felt in months, and I’m excited to share the next batch of videos. First on that list is a long overdue study of Aesop.
Aesop is one of those iconic cult brands that everyone has an opinion of, and I wanted to avoid falling into clichés with my analysis. I’m happy with how it turned out; keen to hear your thoughts.
Watch → Aesop’s uncompromising discipline (The Brandsider)
In today’s newsletter → Miley Cyrus becomes the face of Maison Margiela, Vryao’s launches a latex-tinged collection, and Burberry’s winter campaign goes regal
Cult files
Three stories of the week - and what they teach us about building cult-worthy brands.
Maison Margiela hangs its mask
For 37 years, Maison Margiela has been defined by its subversive pushback of fashion norms. Rejecting the idolization of celebrities and creative leaders, Martin Margiela championed radical creativity and the power of the collective. He famously never made public appearances or even bowed at his shows.
This obsession with anonymity led the brand to develop strict codes to convey their conviction. Models donning masks, employees clad in white lab coats, utilitarian naming conventions (0-23), and the iconic bianchetto paint as a symbol of uniformity.
Now, for the first time in its history, Maison Margiela has named a celebrity ambassador. Miley Cyrus headlines the brand’s AW25 campaign in nothing but Tabi boots and bianchetto paint.
On the surface, it might seem like a shocking choice - but it’s a paradox that works. Miley, an icon of reinvention and performance, embodies the very subversion Margiela was founded on. And by painting her body as canvas, Maison Margiela doesn’t simply tack her onto the brand - it absorbs her into its mythology.
Herein lies the power of strong brand codes: they’re so distinct they can even turn a world-famous celebrity into a vessel for the brand, not the other way around.
Cult homework: Are your brand codes strong enough to speak for you, even in unexpected contexts?
Burberry dusts off its crown
I am forever impressed with Burberry’s turnaround efforts under Daniel Lee. Their latest W25 campaign is unapologetically regal: sweeping castles, tartan capes, a cast drawn straight from British lore. It’s dramatic, almost theatrical - a reminder that Burberry isn’t just a fashion house. It’s Britain’s brand.
This comes the same week Burberry rejoined the FTSE 100 on the London Stock Exchange. But the real win is in how they’ve regained cultural relevance in just a few short months. Notably, with their:
Glasto-inspired festival drop
High summer campaign featuring this iconic bikini
Collaboration with TikTok’s infamous 'Bus Aunty’
After a decade of confusion, Burberry has finally remembered what only it can own: British heritage. Not in the traditional, stuffy sense - but as a way of life, with all of its contradictions and eccentricities.
Cult brands survive when they know what can evolve, and what must remain untouched. And Burberry’s return shows the power of protecting - or returning to - that sacred core.
Cult homework: What’s the sacred core of your brand that can never change?
Watch → Burberry’s ongoing comeback (The Brandsider)
Latex, lust and lived ethos
Vyrao continues to push the envelope on evocative brand storytelling. This week, the fragrance brand launched two new latex-tinged perfumes designed to spark sexual energy - Ludatrix and Ludeaux - fronted by Mia Khalifa and Isamaya Ffrench.
Launched in 2021 by Yasmin Sewell (prev. Être Cécile), Vyrao isn’t your typical fragrance house. The brand calls itself “the world’s first wellbeing brand to fuse energetic healing with master perfumery.” Every scent is designed to alter mood and energy - blending neuroscience, IFF research, and symbolic cues like colour and Herkimer diamonds.
With Ludatrix and Ludeaux, Vyrao extends its ethos into one of the boldest arenas of all: desire.
For decades, products promising to spark arousal have lived in fluorescent-lit aisles and medical settings. With its latest foray, Vryao reframes sexual energy not as clinical or taboo, but as an alterable state of mind - made tangible through scent and storytelling.
Vryao reminds us that cult brands don’t sell products lines (as provocative and interesting as they may be). They sell conviction - and every launch/campaign/collaboration is simply proof of the myth they were built on.
Cult homework: What’s the belief at your brand’s core - and what is the boldest embodiment of it?
Watchlist
Cult moves that caught my eye, even if we’re not unpacking them (yet).
Legacy
Giorgio Armani, a bastion of Italian elegance and immaculate tailoring, has passed away at 91. I was fascinated to learn he started his career in medicine before falling in love with the craft of design - and worked at it until the very end. An impressive man, indeed.
Anna Wintour names Chloe Malle as American Vogue’s new Head of Editorial Content, prev. editor Vogue.com. She plans to revive print by turning their issues into limited-edition collector’s items. Watch this if you’re concerned she’s a nepo baby.
Revivals
eBay taps into our nostalgic love for the brand with a 90s-themed pop-up for their 30th anniversary.
W Hotels unveils its refreshed NYC flagship after a 100M renovation - rediscovering their core DNA whilst evolving to meet consumers’ rising expectations.
To celebrate the brand’s 115th year, Elizabeth Arden is staging a revival after emerging from bankruptcy in 2023. Step one: hosting a pop-up in SoHo.
Launches
Kith is taking a page from Alo’s book and opening a NYC private Padel/wellness club (alongside Erewhon’s first East coast location). It will only cost you $36,000 to join (plus $7,000 in annual members’ fees). Surely the smoothies aren’t that good?
Alo, the wellness brand famous for yoga mats and matching sets is betting on the belief that health = wealth. On Sept 9, the brand will drop a collection of luxury leather bags - with the ‘alo’ logo and all. I’m not sure about this one.
Birkenstock expands its body care line… and I had no clue they were in the beauty space to begin with. Slightly confused; will need to dig deeper.
Collaborations
Ahead of his (impatiently awaited) first womenswear show on Oct 1, Jonathan Anderson names Anora’s Mikey Madison as his first Dior ambassador.
Jacquemus and Veuve Clicquot partner for a limited-edition of La Grande Dame 2018 vintage - aligned through their French origins, female inspirations, and love of the colour yellow.
Mugler’s new creative director will be making his debut during Paris Fashion week (Oct 2), and the brand is back in the limelight with a limited-edition makeup collection in partnership with L’Oréal Paris.
Market signals
Montreal-based luxury retailer SSENSE is going bankrupt due to tariffs and discounting practices. An L for Montreal’s dwindling fashion scene.
Luxury has a trust problem, exacerbated by recent knock-offs and supply chain scandals - and it’s affecting what we’re willing to spend money on. A must-read.
As always, thank you for your support. If there’s brand you’d like me to study - or are interested in working with me directly - please reach out → tamara@thebrandsider.com
xo,
The Brandsider